A year ago, Top Chef: Chicago vet Andrew D’Ambrosi turned in his Le Cirque uniform to commandeer the kitchen at Bergen Hill, a seafood bar in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. Today, this Florida native preps a Bergen Hill mainstay—hamachi crudo with soy ponzu, avocado puree and a medley of watermelon radishes, red onions, scallions and jalapeños.

Despite his more casual digs these days, D’Ambrosi’s cooking sleight of hand still includes plenty of fine-dining flourishes. Take note: veggies cut in silly shapes always taste superior.

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